However, I do carry a minimalist field sharpening kit that weighs only few grams. Using knives made from high hardness and wear resistant steels helps greatly. My take on this is that I sharpen my knives to near perfection before an outing and with a little luck I don't have to resharpen it until I get back to base and can access my comprehensive sharpening gear. Then I should be able to sharpen in the field using river stone and dirt/water/leather belt.Ĭan be done, and is usually done in scripted survival shows, but really. The beauty of MBs is that they are very narrow, generally around 0.5mm wide, so making alterations, or indeed sharpening takes very little time and effort because hardly any metal has to be abraded off. The irony is that once one learns to sharpen, one can come up with effective low budget setups, but not at the beginning, when it is all a mystery to one.Īnd second, I believe I made it in a too big angle so it would be hard to sharpen in the future. I am very fussy with my knives and like to keep them sharp, but to do this had to spend a lot of money on gear and time practicing. But to get there, one ends up trying just about everything before settling down to a favourite way. There are any number of ways to sharpen a knife and it all depends on what works for you. Buying different grades of wet stones can be very expensive and a V rod ceramic system is a much cheaper alternative.ĭon't want to buy something expensive to do this, you know. ĭo as Coryphene said, or perhaps you could get a Sharpmaker. However, you could rig up a simple jig by leaning the stone against a support (at the desired angle) and bringing down the knife (against it) vertically, as when using a Spyderco Sharpmaker jig.īTW I only have a 150/320 whetstone so my possibilities are a bit limited. I do it with sharpening jigs, but these are expensive. I'm curious how would you advise a newbie like myself to do it properly. Taking a cue from wood chisels, for bushcraft a robust edge would be in the range of 35-45 DI, and this must be added by way of a MB. For example, if you wish to take advantage of the planing (gliding) effect of the bevel when wood carving, then, depending on whether you are right or left handed, leave one bevel as per the factory and add an asymmetrical MB to the other side - This way you can keep your cake and eat it too.įactory bevels usually are around 25 degrees included (DI) which is good for delicate work but it is too fragile an edge for all round use. It all depends on what use is envisaged for the knife and the skills of the sharpener. If adding a MB, it can be done symmetrically or asymmetrically. Scandi ground knives can be sharpened a number of ways, with and without MBs. First, I'd like to state that my intention is not a flame war about whether or not having a micro bevel on a scandi grind is good or bad - let's just say I think it's better to have it than now (I tend to chip the blades with zero grind). I believe I've ruined some of my knives already (although they do shave) so it's time to ask about this. You haven't said whether you are talking about sharpening in the field or back at base, so I'll assume that it in the later.
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